Right off the subway and we were already in the throng of it. First, a smell – definitely a mélange…And then the sights. Live eels thrashing around in buckets of water; varieties of turtles stepping one another in attempts to escape with their lives; bowls of snail-like shells so tiny that in order to get to the briny meat inside you must hold them to your lips and suck. Everything here was alive- or recently so…And not much going on in the vegetable department. Just proteins. In bulk.
We started our walk through the market feeling like celebrities. People stopped what they were doing to stare at us, so we smiled and bowed at everyone we passed. “Anyeonghaseyo!” Waves and looks of bemused wonder…Foreigners must be a rarity here. This is a place, we imagine, restaurant owners would come for their culinary needs. Each alley had a theme, we picked one and walked. The seafood alley- aquariums filled with live octopus, squid, abalone, and even what looked like sea cucumber (I have seen these while scuba diving, and had no clue that they could be dinner.) There was the smoked pork alley: tables filled with large joints of meat- brown and glistening and dusted with sesame seeds. Women with large cleavers rhythmically chopping away. Chicken, chicken feet, every variety of dried fish you can imagine…
Then, the smiling pig heads. Smiling pig heads?! Was this real? They looked happy and content- like some sort of film prop. Smiling pig heads all in a row. So…this is where you come to purchase the supplies for a Gosa ceremony. Gosa is a shamanistic ritual meant to bring good luck to those moving into a new house or starting a new business. Guests place money into the mouth of the pig, which sits on a table laden with food. “The more smiley the pig, the better” is a common phrase…and these guys do not disappoint! As Korean culture moves toward modernization and away from superstitious practices, fewer families are holding Gosa ceremonies. I was excited to see vestiges of an old cultural tradition- even if the cheery disembodied heads were slightly unsettling.
But, that was nothing compared to the next alley we found ourselves in. We should have sensed that this place was quieter than the rest. I saw legs on a table ahead of me, and something about their shape seemed familiar. Small, skinless canine forms lined the walkway: this was the infamous dog meat alley. Our walking pace increased its tempo…As owners of two loving dogs, I haven’t yet decided if I am going to “go there” yet. I have heard that dishes prepared with dog meat are tasty- good, even- and I would like to think that I could immerse myself in the different cultures of the world as best as I can. Channel my inner Anthony Bourdain…But I will have to ponder this for a little longer. Consuming dog meat is another cultural practice that is becoming passé.
Korean youth are more likely to join PETA or adopt a teacup-sized puppy than to indulge in a bowl of bosintang (also known as sacheoltang). It didn’t help the debate when we had to walk by a large cage filled with cute, fluffy barking dogs before we could veer off in a different direction. We passed cages of live ducks…chickens…rabbits…
Strange timing aside, we decided to have lunch here. There were tons of restaurants like little shoeboxes that we could venture into. I imagined that this was one of those places where we could have one of the best meals in the country. A hidden gem in a ‘locals only’ only food market… Surely, there was potential for greatness. A woman called out to us from a hole in the wall: “bulgogi!” We love bulgogi…and have had some delicious bulgogi since our arrival in-country. It sounded like a good idea.
We headed into the small, rather dingy space. Oscillating fans were mounted in the corners of the ceiling, and cords spread like spider webs across the sepia coloured walls. Had we been in the states, we probably would have opted out. I translated a couple of words from the menu, using my still-beginner-level-knowledge of the Korean language (slowly but surely I am building my vocabulary- mostly food related) but after looking around, we realized that everyone was being served the same thing: a small plate or two of a thinly sliced, very fatty mystery meat that was being cooked just outside of the door in the alley on little flip-able grates. Kim chi, perilla leaf, gochu, ssamjang, sweet pickled onion, tiny shrimp that looked more like krill, and a bowl of doenjang jjigae accompanied the main course. We did our best to eat what was in front of us- the whole time being slightly unsure what exactly, we were eating (is this dog? we wondered…I hadn’t been able to fully decode the menu) . Unfortunately, this was not the culinary thrill that we had hoped for…And I am still left wondering why it was so crowded- with all sorts of people: families, groups of old men, a couple on a date, young Korean soldiers on their lunch break…Were we missing something? But at 12,000won for the both of us, we did leave with full bellies (and the residual taste of liquid smoke and char on our lips).
How to get there: From Banwoldang, hop on line 1 (red line) going towards Ansim. Get off at stop #133, conveniently named Chilseong Market. Take exit 2 out of the subway station and look across the street…Easy!
Love the photos ! Love the story! How exciting! Love you!
THIS IS TOOOOO REAL. DOG MEAT I CAN DO WITHOUT BUT ALL OF THOSE OTHER ITEMS MAY BE INTERESTING. AS LONG AS YOU LEFT WITH A FULL TUMMY, I GUESS ALL WAS O.K. VEGETABLES WOULD BE MORE TO MY LIKING BUT YOU TELL IT SO GRAPHICALLY I FEEL LIKE I WAS RIGHT THERE BY YOUR SIDES.
Great post!!
This is really exciting journey, and I feel like I was the one being there.
As for the smiling pig head thing, my Korean friend said that folk religion is some kind of polytheism and it is believed that when you do the ritual “gosa”, the gods or spirits visit and if they are satisfied with the offering, they make the pig head smile. It’s weird but…well I guess it is understandable. Many people believe that people could be possessed by evil spirits or something.
Glad you enjoyed the post! Thanks for the additional insight into the Gosa ceremony…I always enjoy the opportunity to learn more. *Lara
I love Korean markets, they’re so fascinating (and sometimes so smelly!). I love those pigs, they look like they’re smiling!
I actually had to walk around behind the pig heads to see if they were real, and not cake or rubber! Wandering markets is one of my favorite past times…Sometimes it seems like you could spend a week in one and still not see everything.
You so nicely described this market. I totally pictured everything and got a nice feel for the place from your words! I came to Korea absolutely positive I would not eat dog meat, my dog is my best friend, how could I eat dog? Lately, though, I have been thinking about possibly trying it before I leave here (which is 10.5 months away, so I have plenty of time to think!) so I am in the same boat as you. Sweet post!
Katie- thanks for the nice words! It is a really tough decision for us dog owners…I love all animals, but it is a challenge to think beyond the loving and loyal furry friend aspect, and just embrace the different food culture at face value. Like you, I have some time to decide and part of me just really wants to do it. I will be curious to hear if you take the plunge in the next (almost) year!
What a treat it was to read your post! You certainly have a way with words and being able to take your reader on a journey. I live pretty close to Gupo Market in Busan and even though you think you’re ready, seeing dogs in cages like that takes you by surprise. Would I try dog-meat? Still on the fence…
It is a really startling scene- all those little dog faces looking at you from the cage…Have you come across any restaurants in your neighbourhood that serve dog on their menu? I haven’t encountered it yet outside of the market, so it has kept the debate with myself in the theoretical phase!
That picture of the pig heads is the creepiest, darkly funny thing I have seen. They’re so happy looking!
Boshintang is quite good; the meat is pretty fatty and gristly and just a little gamey tasting, but it’s a good dish. I’m not sure what kind of dish you ate at that restaurant… the meat sounds like it could have been dog, but I guess it’s anyone’s guess!
They do look like something from a surrealist comedy!
Before coming to Korea, I came across a food essay that told tale of a surprisingly delicious bowl of boshingtang. And now you have confirmed the sentiment- which makes me really want to get over my misgivings! Especially since the dish is becoming more elusive… Do you happen to remember where you were when you indulged?
Not sure if you were looking to eat some dog but if that was your goal, good on ya. Personally, I battled with the idea for a while but then spent a lot of time with my father-in-law’s golden retriever and had to decide against it ever happening. All the “health benefits” really don’t appeal to me and it’s something that’s really changing in this country.
There’s supposedly a lot of that in my town but not sure where. It’s a touchy subject when talking with my students young and old. This was an interesting story though. Well told. Thanks for sharing.
I am hoping that we did not unknowingly eat dog…My language teacher told me that it tends to be a rather expensive dish (that he only had once- after his grandfather made it for him and told him that it was rabbit stew…) and the lunch we had was super cheap- so I think we were spared. We brought our 2 dogs over with us, and when I look at them and consider it- it seems completely out of the question. But as I keep mentioning, part of me would like to think that I could try something so culturally different. (Although there are probably lots of other ways to satisfy that itch!).
I love eating at hole-in-the-wall places like that, but I have to say that meat did look pretty questionable though!! haha I don’t think it was dog, though dog bulgogi type dishes definitely exist. We live within walking distance of a couple dog restaurants out here in the country. The interesting thing is that in recent years they stopped trying to hide it as much! The sign are more prominent and straight-forward than they were when we first got here 3 years ago.
I actually had to look twice at those pigs faces, they didn’t look real (they are real right?). My coteachers always beg me to eat dog meat with them. I dislike the practice of consuming dogs but I’m also really curious as to what all the fuss is about. There is another market in Daegu which is really awesome, Seomun Market…check it out if you haven’t already been.
Wow, you’re ballsy for trying anything that was just placed in front of you! I can say I’m willing to try many things when in a different country, but meat I’m super finicky with. Esp if I thought it may be dog, I just think of my baby puppies too much. but wow, if you were seeking it out, awesome you got it slightly unbeknownst to you 😉 Great story if you were looking for it or not.
Seems like an awesome market! The pig heads alone make it seem worth the trip. So strange yet awesome.
I had some friends who had a similar encounter with dog. They were pretty close to eating until they realized what the restaurant was serving due to little dogs running around outside and an ajumma pointed at the dog and made an eating motion. I was willing to try anything in Korea but not dog. Just something I can’t do!
Awesome post. I just spent the entire weekend wandering the food markets in Sokcho. It’s so much fun… A really nice to way feel more like a local (despite getting stopped and stared at) and see into the actual communities that are so vibrant in these cities. Great photos!
Great descriptions, great post! My friends have tried to get me to do the dog soup before, but to be honest they said it wasn’t even delicious. I don’t really have a moral issue with it, I just don’t understand why I would go get a bowl of not delicious soup! I’ll stick to my haejangguk, thank you very much.
I’m feeling so much culture shock looking at these photos~ Did you feel the same?
Great writing Laura. I love potterig about markets, so much energy and a great way to see the real place and meet the locals.
Those pigs heads! They look so peaceful, I wonder how they get them to smile like that?
Marc
Thanks, Marc! Yeah…those pig heads…I also wonder how they got the faces to look so blissed out!